The Simplest Hangboard Exercise for Maximum Results: Repeaters!
Whether you are brand new to hangboarding or a dead hang veteran, theres no questioning that hangboarding is one of best ways climbers can improve their finger strength outside of just climbing. There are countless different exercises to do on the hangboard and with a vast array of unfiltered information available to people these days its easy to get confused and think you need more or have to do all of it to improve. The truth is when it comes to training the simpler the better, repetition and time will improve your skills more than anything. The simplest hangboard exercise for maximizing results in improved finger strength is an exercise called Repeaters.
Repeaters have you choosing three different sized holds that you hang on each one for 7 seconds 5-7 total times with 3 seconds rest inbetween hangs. The 7 seconds on, 3 seconds off rule comes from the legendary rock climbing training coaches Mark and Mike Andersons study into climbing training where they found that on average when you are climbing you hang from the position you are in for around 7 seconds and it takes you about 3 seconds to move from each hold. Replicating this pacing on the hangboard recreates a realistic scenario for how your muscles will need to function while climbing.
How To Do Repeaters:
Choose 3 holds. Ranging from large to small, easy to difficult. If you have a specific project that requires a specialized hold like 2 finger pockets or 3 finger pockets, crimps or slopers etc use these types of holds for your repeaters to reach an optimal level of functioning on your project.
Once you have your holds to start:
Hang for 7 seconds on the first hold
Rest 3 seconds
Hang for another 7 seconds
Repeat the above cycle for 5 to 7 hangs at 7 seconds each with 3 seconds rest.
Rest 3 minutes before starting your next hold.
Repeat the same process on the next hold.
Rest 3 minutes
Repeat again on your last hold.
This would be considered one set of three holds. One set is plenty to complete, if you are a sport climber trying to improve even more endurance doing a second set is possible to help with that.
Overall this is the simplest set up on a hangboard you can use for improving your finger strength.